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Mursi tribe in the Omo Valley, Ethiopia Hiking the Romsdalseggen, Norway Camping at Gebel Barkal, Sudan

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Mengo View

Our bedroom window faces southwest across the Kampalan suburb of Mengo. It looks over rusted tin roofs and palms trees to the pylons on top of the Lubaga and Namirembe hills. The air is permanently clotted with wood smoke and humidity. Although we don’t open the curtains often, I retain a detailed and nuanced mental map Continue Reading »

Baha’i House of Worship

A smiling woman with short curly braids and wearing a brightly patterned dress stood facing backwards towards the congregation. She carefully directed the choir in the two pews in front of her with her thick forearms. Women sat in the front row, while men sat in the back row singing the bass part. The melody Continue Reading »

New office in Kampala

I am sitting at my new desk in a small lightly painted office under the lee of palms and mango trees from the compound next door. Two chickens are clucking around the open doorway in the bright sunshine. I share this office with Lorna and the office administrator. My brow is beaded with sweat; it Continue Reading »

Orkney Road Trip: The Italian Chapel

Call it the Bader Meinhoff complex, fate, or coincidence, but in the few weeks leading up to our Orkney trip, I noticed numerous stories and articles online about an Italian Chapel on Lamb Holm. The chapel’s existence was news to me. It lies only a few hundred yards off the road to the main island; Continue Reading »