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Follow my time living in Uganda through my Kampala Diary Mursi tribe in the Omo Valley, Ethiopia Hiking the Romsdalseggen, Norway Camping at Gebel Barkal, Sudan

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Kampala Commute: the Boda Ride

I knew Johnny was an enterprising boda driver when he phoned me unprompted at eight thirty one morning and asked if I was ready to go to work. He had taken my number the day before after hailing him in the street. I was only just out of the shower; I told him to pick Continue Reading »

Ugandan Lunch

Every workday at around half past one Rose the cook deferentially peers through the doorway of my office and says cheerily ‘Lunch is ready,’ or sometimes just ‘Lunch’. She spends the morning cooking over a wood fire stove with large steel pots and long wooden stirring spoons in a windowless corrugated iron shack tacked onto Continue Reading »

End of Term Brass Band

I was sitting at my desk when I heard a faint chaotic melody through the window. The office had a fractious, oppressive air that morning; meetings had been cancelled, work plans delayed, and staff were absent due to the unrelenting bereavements that I will always find shocking. At first I assumed the sound was somebody’s Continue Reading »

Christmas on Lake Victoria

I have to confess: I didn’t get that warm tinselly feeling once over the Christmas period. I had a glimmer of it standing on the British High Commissioner’s lawn during the Christmas Carols service. We drank mulled wine and ate homemade mince pies and sang the standard repertoire of carols under white marquee tents. These usual Continue Reading »