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Mursi tribe in the Omo Valley, Ethiopia Hiking the Romsdalseggen, Norway Camping at Gebel Barkal, Sudan

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Christmas on Lake Victoria

I have to confess: I didn’t get that warm tinselly feeling once over the Christmas period. I had a glimmer of it standing on the British High Commissioner’s lawn during the Christmas Carols service. We drank mulled wine and ate homemade mince pies and sang the standard repertoire of carols under white marquee tents. These usual Continue Reading »

Weekend Safari: Murchison Falls

“Oh my god. If I could just see one giraffe and just one elephant, I’d be the happiest person in Uganda.” Kirstie’s frenetic excitement reached its peak as our safari minibus jerked along the rutted clay road between walls of dense rainforest to the entrance of the Murchison Falls National Park. Spiders with bodies the Continue Reading »

Mengo View

Our bedroom window faces southwest across the Kampalan suburb of Mengo. It looks over rusted tin roofs and palm trees to the pylons on top of the Lubaga and Namirembe hills. The air is permanently clotted with wood smoke and humidity. Although we don’t open the curtains often, I retain a detailed and nuanced mental map Continue Reading »

Baha’i House of Worship

A smiling woman with short curly braids and wearing a brightly patterned dress stood facing backwards towards the congregation. She carefully directed the choir in the two pews in front of her with her thick forearms. Women sat in the front row, while men sat in the back row singing the bass part. The melody Continue Reading »